Unless there is something else that I find, I think we're looking at a new radiator as the remedy. Now to find the exact spot and then the remedy. Boiling coolant means loss of pressure somewhere in the pressurized system. This is also where the overflow hose dumps coolant when it releases from the pressure relief cap at the top of the reservoir. There are some extra molding features about 10 inches from the bottom of the radiator in this location and one of them may have a hairline or fissure crack in it. I'm seeing coolant leaking down the outside casing of the radiator on the driver's side. Thank you.ĭavo You're right on! Great thinking. The effects should not hardly be noticeable. However, the lower pressure means it is very slightly harder to cool the engine and radiator overall since there is less air for heat transfer purposes. That should make no difference to the cooling system. All this does is put additional pressure on the cooling system by about 4 psi. However, at 7,350 feet, the ambient pressure is around 11 psi. New uld there be an engine gasket that is leaking gases into the cooling system to raise the pressure? And is this made worse when at the higher altitude? I checked and Sea Level pressure is 14.7 psi. I'm going to examine the lip on the reservoir tank to see if it has any dings or cracks in it. I'm going to experiment to see if one is different than the other. I have a new Dodge OEM cap and a new aftermarket cap. To keep the pressure in the cooling system at 15 psi max, the cap is designed with a spring to release pressure if it exceeds 15 psi. As a closed system, outside pressure should have no effect on the cooling system. I'd sure appreciate any help you can give me. If you have any other comments that can help me out, please let me know. But it's a great training tool because this problem is so bizarre.Įveryone thanks for your suggestions. No one but this group wants to think this one out. As a result, I've had to take the time to stop and slowly start figuring out what the possible cause could be. There are few people who can really think out and figure out what the root issue is that I've been dealing with. What is disheartening is that all of the above look at a book which gives all the answers, of which none have worked. This problem has stumped every Jeep Dealership and about every mechanic I've had look at this problem. Letting the engine idle for several minutes dissipates some of this heat and this helps a little. Remember too that when you shut the engine off after a hard climb up hills, a lot of latent heat is built up in the engine block and this comes out into the cooling system when the engine is turned off. By adding pure orange coolant, I'm slowly lowering the boiling point of the coolant and maybe will get it to the point where it does not bubble/boil when I shut off the engine. This 50/50 mixture does better than water, but it still has a lower boiling point. The second issue is that the coolant comes mixed 50/50 with water. I must still fill it every couple of days. So, with a new rad cap, I'm still getting boiling, but I'm not losing as much coolant. The first problem I found was a deteriorated rad cap gasket that caused the system to loose pressure, thus with lower pressure in the cooling system, the boiling point drops and the coolant boils off faster. The result is that I've been boiling off my coolant and there is not enough anti freeze left in the system to fill the heater coil. I can actually see it bubbling, just like boiling water in a pot. What is happening is when I park the Jeep in the driveway after the long climb up the hill, and when I shut off the engine, the fluid in my radiator reservoir boils. At this altitude, water boils at 198*F instead of the 212*f which it does at sea level I'm used to. I think I have found out what part of the problem is. This problem has 3 dealers and at least 5 mechanics stumped. What allows the heating system to get really hot in the first place? If I let the cooling system cool down, then the heater works fine. If the A/C light is off, then only cold air comes out.įirst, why does the warm air suddenly got really hot? Then it appears that a temp over ride kicks in and turns the system off. The A/C light is intermittent, but when on, then the heater blows warm air. When it lights, hot air returns from the heater. After that, to get warm air, and only sometimes, if I press the A/C button, it may or may not light. Then I hear the gate switch the air from hot to cold. But just before it shuts down, the hot air gets really hot, then I hear a door or gate in the heater shut off and only cold air comes from the heater. The heating system shuts down after being turned on and while in use for anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour. The radiator has been flushed 3 times in the last 2 months.
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